I’ve started writing about four separate versions of this post over the past nine months since returning from Austin, Texas, and every time I’ve gotten stuck and given up. So here we go again… Maybe this one will stick.
Part of my problem with writing about Austin is that this trip was absolutely incredible – and indescribable. And because it was ‘indescribable’, that makes it very hard to write about. (Because that would mean describing it. Duh.) Plus, I’m worried I can’t do it justice.
I came home from Austin and everyone kept asking me about it, and I would rave about the trip and the city. But when people would ask me specifically why I liked it so much, I would kind of be at a loss for words. I’d tell them about all the things we did (which was a lot, actually, in the four days that I was there), and about the neat bars and food trucks and street art, and about biking around Lady Bird Lake, and about how nice the people were (I mean, they said ‘y’all’, so I was a little biased), and about how carefree I felt being there. And my various friends + relatives would nod and say that was great, but I could tell they didn’t really get it, and that frustrated me. Like – it’s fine. Obviously they weren’t on the trip, so how could I expect them to fully understand? But still. That’s why I’ve been procrastinating so much on this post, because I don’t feel like I can possibly explain what this trip meant to me, and how it came at the perfect time in my life, and how desperate I am to get back there.
Enough rambling. Let’s just get started, shall we?
So here’s the (very, very) short version of what happened prior to leaving for Austin last July: I broke up with my boyfriend, let our landlord know that we would be moving out of our townhouse, and quit my job, in the span of about six days. And then I got on a plane and met up with two of my very best pals, Tony and Holden, in Austin.
Actually, it wasn’t quite that simple, because I almost didn’t get on that plane due to some screw-up with my booking (it was a WestJet code-share through United – turns out? Baaaaad idea. But cheap, ya know?). BUT after much panic and impatience on my part (amplified by the fact that it was 5:00am and I was exhausted) and much scrambling on some poor United employee’s part, I got a seat on the plane. After a too-short stopover at the Denver airport (I’ve never been to Colorado before and there was a very cool looking brewpub right across from my gate, okay?), I got on my second flight with much less of a struggle.
My worst nightmare was recognized on both of these flights however – on one flight I was in the window seat, and on the second I was in the MIDDLE, which is, of course, the absolute least desirable seat. For the past 12+ years that I’ve been flying on my own I’ve always always always had to have the aisle seat. So this was a bit (extra) stressful for me, however the flights were only two hours each and I somehow managed to stay calm and survive.
DAY ONE
I landed in Austin, picked up my suitcase, got in a cab and within 20 minutes was standing outside our heavily air-conditioned Airbnb (the boys loved it, and had nicknamed it ‘The Icebox’).
Tony and Holden, having been there for the RTX convention since the previous Thursday, welcomed me inside with beers (and a Smirnoff Ice… classic.), and then after changing into shorts (it was SO HOT y’all), we were running wild in the streets of Austin.
I mean, we weren’t actually running, we walked to this cafe called The Hideout, but still. I got a much needed coffee, and the boys had some fancy grilled cheeses, and I struggled to use the debit card machine and everyone laughed at me. It was great.
After that, we explored the Texas State Capitol building and then went out for dinner at this place called Caroline (which had a really cool rooftop patio I wanted to check out next time we visited Austin). This is a fun coincidence, as Tony ended up meeting a girl on Tinder while in Austin who he’s now in a long distance relationship with, and her name just so happens to be Caroline (foreshadowing much?).
From there, we headed back to our Airbnb, had some drinks and went to this bar down the alley from where we were staying called the Violet Crown Social Club. I adored this spot because it was decorated with crowns EVERYWHERE.
When we ordered tequila shots (a Holden + Elle classic), we instead each ended up with half a glass full of the world’s cheapest and worst tequila for $3, which was equally amazing and terrible. We also got fries and queso from this food truck called Cluck-n-Burger that was in the parking lot of the Violet Crown, which was absolutely UNREAL. We may or may not have gone back there multiple times throughout our trip.
DAY TWO
After a liiiiittle bit of a sleep-in, we woke up ready to go on my second day in Austin. We set out for Franklin Barbecue, but Tony had to turn around after about a block to go home and lay down. (Amateur hour over here!) We were prepared for a line at Franklin, as it’s famous for having some of the best barbecue in Austin, and we got a line indeed. We waited for two and a half hours and were rewarded with some of the best brisket I’ve ever had (among other things) and ice cold Lone Star beers (“The National Beer of Texas”).
Tony had his second date with Caroline that night, so Holden and I decided to go on a little date of our own…
We started off by getting ramen at a place called Daruma, because Holden had never had it before and I’m a huge fan, plus a couple of Sapporo beers of course.
Next, we headed to a speakeasy-style spot marked only by a sign out front saying ‘Floppy Disk Repair Co.’ and a keypad to enter a code before the door would open. Holden and Tony had gotten the code from a local earlier in the week, so we were able to get in – and what a cool hidden spot! There were swings as seats at the bar, and neon signs everywhere for lighting.
Lastly, Holden took me to Garage Cocktail Bar, located in the centre of one of those spiral ramps at a parking garage – it sounds grungy, but this was by far the classiest of the three bars we went to, complete with $15 cocktails and mood music. (Find them on Facebook at Garage Cocktail Bar)
We walked back to the Airbnb down East 6th Street, which is basically what Stephen Avenue here in Calgary is trying to be – lined with bars, restaurants and quirky shops, and closed off to cars after a certain time each evening. Walking down the middle of 6th Street and listening to live music pumping out of various venues, I couldn’t stop smiling – no, beaming. I was literally beaming.
Once we got back to “our” neighbourhood, we were craving margaritas, so we headed over to Violet Crown again for margs – and more fries and queso from Cluck-n-Burger of course!
DAY THREE
On my third day of the trip, we were woken up bright and early by Tony finally returning from his date. He walked in the door, Holden said “Breakfast tacos?” and Tony said “Breakfast tacos.” and turned around and walked right back out the door. He returned about 20 minutes later with the most delicious breakfast tacos I’ve ever had, from this hole-in-the-wall called Pueblo Viejo, and iced coffees from Wright Bros. Brew & Brew, both of which were just around the block from our place.
Fueled by tacos and caffeine, we rented electric bikes via mobile app and set out for Barton Springs Pool.
Hot, tired and thirsty from all of our adventuring, we decided to Google-map cafes that were close in proximity, and ended up at Better Half Coffee & Cocktails. What a lucky find! The pasta dish I sampled had some of the most unique flavour I’ve ever found in a sauce (and I mean that in the best way possible), and the white sangria was exactly what we needed.
Back out in the heat, we walked over to HOPE Outdoor Gallery, a graffiti park, hoping to explore and get some cool photos. We arrived to find the park fenced off with no access (the gallery will be re-opening in spring/summer 2020, near the Austin airport). We took some shots through the fence, which made for a neat effect, and then decided we deserved to treat ourselves to a ride back to the Airbnb, so we ordered a Lyft.
At some point, Tony got tired of us sitting around, and left to go out somewhere. After talking for a little longer, Holden and I got bored too, and went over to (where else?) the Violet Crown. We ordered some more fries and queso, and while waiting for our food noticed the most adorable little teardrop trailer converted into a photo booth. We just HAD to get our picture taken here…
We eventually tracked down Tony at Ah Sing Den across the street from our Airbnb. There, I struggled through about half a Lone Star beer before passing it over to Holden, who valiantly finished it for me, then we headed back to our place and I promptly fell asleep. Tony stayed out with his new-found friends until the early hours of the morning – he’s like that, meeting interesting characters and doing his own thing, wherever he goes.
DAY FOUR
We took full advantage of our last day in Austin by… staying in bed until almost 2pm. Tony then went out on another date with Caroline, so Holden and I were left to our own devices.
He took me first to Brew and Brew so that I could check out the neat coffeeshop/bar in person, and we enjoyed some of the best cold brew (coffee that is, not beer!) I’ve ever had. From there, we walked over to a nearby food truck park (Austin is full of these, and I’m obsessed) so that I could try some mac and cheese from Rollin Smoke, a barbecue truck that Holden had raved about.
By the time we got back from our very late lunch, Tony was home from his date but exhausted, so Holden and I headed out on the electric bikes again to journey the perimeter of Lady Bird Lake, located on the outskirts of downtown Austin and with a well-developed pathway system looping all the way around it (imagine a bigger, prettier, more established version of the path around the Glenmore Reservoir in Calgary).
Arriving back at the Airbnb, we found Tony all napped-up and ready to go, so we wandered back up 6th Street to get some tattoos at All Saints (I promise, this was actually pre-planned, not some crazy spur-of-the-moment decision). Tony and Holden were going to get matching “Bevy Boys” tattoos with little cheers-ing steins, but it ended up being way too expensive for what it was. I got my lovely lil crown tattoo and Holden got the word “SORRY” on the back of his leg (based on the joke that he apologizes so much that he may as well have the word tattooed on him) – Tony sadly decided to pass on the tattoos for the time being.
Silly, somewhat meaningless tattoos, made special by where we got them and who we got them with.
We explored a little more of 6th Street, and then stopped in at Easy Tiger Bake Shop
& Beer Garden, which a very cool bakery + bar (what a combination!) with an indoor/outdoor design located right on a canal. We sat outside (obviously) and enjoyed dinner and some incredible lime gose tequila barrel-aged beers called Mas Agave from Founders Brewing Co., based out of Grand Rapids, Michigan.
DAY FIVE
We woke up early on the day of our flight home to pack up and clean. There was a bottle of Jack Daniels that a previous guest had left in the Airbnb and, of course, I decided it would be a great idea to finish it before we left. I quite literally brushed my teeth with a bottle of Jack that day (to quote the brilliant Ke$ha).
From there, we took an Uber to the airport and breezed through to our gate with plenty of time, so we each had one last Lone Star – since it’s the national beer of Texas you know. (You can’t imagine how excited I was to stumble across Lone Star in a Calgary bar in September – it’s not the greatest beer, but the memories alone made it worth it.)
The flight home, with no issues getting a seat assigned and no layover this time, went by quickly, and we enjoyed a rum + coke and episodes of The Office that Holden had downloaded from Netflix.
My mom picked the three of us up from the airport, where I hastily changed clothes, and dropped Holden and I off at the Stampede Grounds to catch the final evening of The Greatest Outdoor Show On Earth 2019. Tony, sadly, had to go home and get ready to be at work for 6 o’clock the next morning, so the 3 ‘Austin Bois’, as we still call ourselves, finally parted ways after an amazing 5 days (and longer for them!) in Texas.
Holden and I danced the night away at the Stampede until 1:45am, 15 minutes before the official end of the event. What a way to end our trip!
How it all began… and a few miscellaneous notes:
When Tony and Holden were planning their second annual trip to Austin to go to RTX and somewhat seriously asked if I wanted to join them, I figured why not? I could actually afford it (for a change), and when else would I get the opportunity to go with people who were already planning on heading there anyways? I’m a big fan of country music, the word “y’all”, cowboys and the southern States, so I knew I’d love Texas.
That being said, I didn’t realize just how in love I would fall with Austin. I was thinking I’d go, have a good time, tour around, hang out with my friends, drink some beers, eat some barbecue, all that jazz. As it turned out, Austin is one of the absolute coolest cities I’ve ever been to, and that’s not something I say lightly. Seriously – if you ever have an excuse to go, GO (and if you don’t have an excuse, make up one up). I would be back there right now if I could.
Awhile back, Holden and I were reminiscing about this trip (as we often do, it really was THE BEST), and I was like “It was just such a nice break, you know? I felt careless, but in a positive way if that makes any sense.” (And Holden understood, because Holden always understands).
But, you guys…
Carefree.
What I meant was carefree. THAT was the word I was looking for. (I tell ya, sometimes I’m REAL dumb.) Careless means something else entirely, obviously. But carefree – that’s exactly how this trip felt to me. And I’m never like that. I’m always (and I mean ALWAYS) stressed out about something and worrying about everything and feeling like I need to be responsible for all things at all times. Even out at my cottage in the past two or three years I’ve never felt fully relaxed the way I used to when I was there. But not on this trip.
I would like to note that I was the most irresponsible traveller on my trip to Austin. My debit AND credit cards weren’t working, and what few US Dollars I had brought were used up quickly. I also didn’t know the code to the lock on the door at our Airbnb. I’d basically just throw on sunglasses and wander out of the apartment following the boys, carrying my phone (which I racked up about $45 of roaming charges on in the five days I was there), and possibly my wallet, if we were going somewhere that I’d have to show ID. I relied on Tony and Holden to pay for everything (don’t worry, I paid back my debts later!) and to get us back in to the Airbnb. I also toted my passport around quite a bit, and did not do a good job of storing my ‘valuables’ (laptop, camera, the passport…) anywhere remotely safe. My mom would not have been impressed. We also didn’t have travel insurance, so the running joke was that if something happened we better just die, because we couldn’t afford to pay any hospital bills.
But I loved it. It was exactly what I needed. Additionally, this trip made me rediscover my passion for traveling, and why I adore it so much. Outside of touring around eastern Canada while I lived there a few years ago, and a resort vacation in Mexico in January 2017, I hadn’t really travelled since the fall of 2014. That is toooooo long. So 2019, with its trips to Winnipeg, Austin, Edmonton, Vancouver, Fernie, the Bruce Peninsula in Ontario and camping + cabin excursions throughout Alberta and BC, made me feel like myself again.
And that is endlessly valuable to me.
Tony, Holden and I headed back to Austin to visit Tony’s girlfriend Caroline at the end of January for Tony’s birthday, so stayed tuned for that! (Hopefully it doesn’t take me another nine months to post about Austin round two…)
There, I did it.
**big shout-out to Holden for remembering all the names of the places we visited that I didn’t know (rookie mistake)!
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